Setters’ Notes

  • If any two climbs of the same colour get too close together, nothing is out! Whatever is in reach is considered “in”.

    Recent Tweaks

    Tweaks made during the first 2-3 days will not be listed here! It is normal for climbs to undergo changes when they are freshly set.

  • White in The Slabs modified (April 3).

  • Finish section of Yellow in Mossy Cove modified to diffuse a beta break (April 21).

  • White in Middle Rock altered to make start more friendly for shorter climbers (April 24).

  • Finish section of Yellow Double Black in Deep cove modified again (April 24).

  • Yellow Triple Black in Deep Cove modified harder (April 24).

Big changes to our setting program.

We are making several changes to our setting program, and we wanted to do a detailed write up so you all know what is going on!

We are changing up our setting team and turn-over schedule!

We have added a 5th weekly setter position which will be shared between members of our new B-Team. Our B-team is composed of several hand picked local climbers/setters. They will fill the extra weekly position, but also help fill in for members of our regular team who are injured or travelling, resulting in less disruption to our setting schedule. Opportunities for setting in Newfoundland are rare, so we are excited to start this program to train and collaborate with more setters.

We are changing how much terrain we cover on a weekly basis and how often we set. Going forward, we will rotate ~1/3rd of the gym each week we set, and we will set 2 weeks on, then take 1 week off. Despite taking more weeks off, we will actually turn climbs over faster with the extra setter helping to increase the amount of terrain covered.

We are also making changes to our grades!

Capitalizing on more frequent breaks in our setting calendar, we are able doing more quality control and planning on off days. Setting days are quite the hustle just to get the basic tasks complete, so we are excited to have more dedicated time to reflect on our climbs and plan for the future as a team.

One of the first changes we have decided to make is to redraw the lines between our grades. We are doing this upon reflecting on the goal of grading – to establish useful guidelines of difficulty and approachability.

The most noticeable changes are that we are lowering the difficulty boundries for climbs in the black diamond and above difficulties. As a result, you will notice:

  • Blue Square climbs will be easier on the high end.

  • Black Diamond and Double Black Diamond grades will be easier on the low and high end.

  • Triple Black Diamonds will include more climbs on the low end.

We are not changing the how many climbs at any given difficulty we will have, just where we draw the lines for grading.

Thank you for taking the time to read this update, and let us know how this system works for you as these changes impact the gym in the coming weeks/months!

Written April 3rd, 2024.

Core Team Setters
Joel Harvie
Daniel Alacoque
Julia Bruce-Robertson
Thatcher Flynn

B-Team Setters
Levi Kitsul
Hannah Adams
Dave Stack
Madison Bailey
Keely Whitelaw
Mitchell Clowe

Contact head setter Joel H

OUR ROUTE SETTING TEAM